17—SOME EFFECTS OF SINUSOIDAL PERIODIC YARN THICKNESS VARIATIONS ON THE APPEARANCE OF WOVEN CLOTH

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Abstract
Sinusoidal periodic thickness variations in weft yarn of wavelength less than twice the width of the cloth cause diamond barring effects. The appearance of plain-weave spun rayon cloths, woven from weft yarn containing periodic thickness variations of known amplitude and wavelength, has been investigated in order to determine the influence of (i) pick spacing, (ii) the ratio of cloth width to wavelength in the yarn, and (iii) the amplitude in the yarn. It is shown that the prominence of diamond barring increases as the amplitude in the yarn increases and that, for a given amplitude in the yarn, it increases as the number of diamonds across the width of the cloth increases. It is also shown that, contrary to what has been generally supposed, the objectionability of periodic thickness variations in weft yarn is little affected by small changes in the ratio of cloth width to wavelength in the yarn. There is some suggestion that, although the cloth width/wavelength ratio to reveal a periodic yarn thickness variation is not critical, the ratio required in order to conceal it is critical. An instrument for the measurement of periodic thickness variations in yarn—the Yarn Period Analyser—is described.

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