Athree-hourtestforrapidcomparisonofeffectsofmoisturizersandactiveconstituents(urea). Measurement of hydration, scaling and skin surface lipidization by noninvasive techniques

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Abstract
An in vivo skintestforrapidcomparisonof the efficacy ofmoisturizersis introduced.Testsubstances were applied to flexor side forearm skin, and measurements by non-invasive techniques were performed after 3 h. As indicators of epidermal hydration, the electrical conductance and capacitance were measured. To quantify theeffectson scale pattern, D-Squame tapes were scored and the optical transmission measured. Moreover, skin surface lipids resulting from lotion lipids were measured. Lotions and different concentrations ofureacould be ranked in a consistent way, viz. untreated skin < vehicle < 3%urealotion < 10%urealotion.Ureawas concluded to be very potent as a skin humidifier and as a descaling agent, particularly in 10% concentration. Humidity characteristics correlated much better with the concentration ofureathan with lipidization of the skin surface due to lotion lipids. A 3-hourtestperiod was sufficient for the evaluation of theeffectsofmoisturizerson both epidermal hydration and scale pattern. With arapidtestmethod, sources of variation such as diurnal and day-to-day variations, dosage and non-compliance are easily controlled. Further, by using non-invasive methods, the assessment has been rendered objective.

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