Propagation of surface gravity waves over a rectangular submerged bar

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Abstract
Experiments on the propagation of linear and weakly nonlinear gravity waves over a rectangular submerged bar were undertaken through very careful measurements in a wave tank. Effects arising from the finite amplitude of the surface wave and those coming from the generation of vortices around bar edges were examined. Experimental data are compared with results of two theoretical models. The first model was derived from Takano (1960) and Kirby & Dalrymple's (1983) work and the second model was developed by Devillard, Dunlop & Souillard (1988) using the renormalized transfer matrix introduced by Miles (1967).