Geometric properties of deep-water breaking waves
- 1 December 1989
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 209, 405-433
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112089003162
Abstract
The time-space evolution of a steep water wave reaching the breaking stage is observed by means of a visualization technique. In particular, the asymmetry of the wave profile in the near-breaking region is displayed. Measurements at breaking onset on a sample of breaking waves show a relation between the rate of asymmetry growth and the breaker type. The shape evolution of a plunging crest after breaking has started, and the related splash-up phenomenon and its part in the air-entrainment process are also observed.Keywords
This publication has 18 references indexed in Scilit:
- The period-doubling of gravity–capillary wavesJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1986
- Free-surface flows related to breaking wavesJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1983
- A class of elliptical free-surface flowsJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1983
- The breaking and non-breaking wave resistance of a two-dimensional hydrofoilJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1983
- Experiments on nonlinear instabilities and evolution of steep gravity-wave trainsJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1982
- Parametric solutions for breaking wavesJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1982
- The fascination of fluid mechanicsJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1981
- The deformation of steep surface waves on water ll. Growth of normal-mode instabilitiesProceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 1978
- Theory of the almost-highest wave. Part 2. Matching and analytic extensionJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1978
- The deformation of steep surface waves on water - I. A numerical method of computationProceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 1976