On the shore singularity of water–wave theory. II. Small waves do not break on gentle beaches
- 1 October 1986
- journal article
- research article
- Published by AIP Publishing in Physics of Fluids
- Vol. 29 (10) , 3164-3171
- https://doi.org/10.1063/1.865968
Abstract
The model of gravitational surface waves on beaches of small slope formulated in Part I [Phys. Fluids 2 9, ▪▪▪ (1986)] and its mathematical theory [R. E. Meyer, Adv. Appl. Math. (in press)] are used to show how an incident‐wave amplitude can be defined so that a bound on it guarantees solutions which respect the assumptions of the model everywhere and forever. The structure of those solutions ‘‘far’’ from shore is then compared with that predicted ‘‘near’’ shore by the classical, linear theory [Commun. Pure Appl. Math. 1 (1948)] to remove the indeterminacies of both theories and to develop a unified theory which describes the whole shoaling process for unbroken waves of arbitrary time‐dependence on inviscid water. These results indicate that the beach theory [Waves on Beaches (Academic, New York, 1972), p. 357 and Phys. Fluids 2 9, ▪▪▪ (1986)] captures and elucidates the basic singularity structure underlying the shore behavior of gravitational surface waves.Keywords
This publication has 11 references indexed in Scilit:
- Theory of Water-Wave RefractionPublished by Elsevier ,1979
- Wave Breaking in Shallow WaterPublished by Elsevier ,1972
- Run-up on BeachesPublished by Elsevier ,1972
- An asymptotic method for a singular hyperbolic equationArchive for Rational Mechanics and Analysis, 1966
- Climb of a bore on a beach Part 3. Run-upJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1963
- Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 1. Uniform beach slopeJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1962
- Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beachJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1958
- Supersonic flow through nozzles with rotational symmetryCommunications on Pure and Applied Mathematics, 1952
- Waves on a shallow sloping beachCommunications on Pure and Applied Mathematics, 1948
- THE METHOD OF CHARACTERISTICS FOR PROBLEMS OF COMPRESSIBLE FLOW INVOLVING TWO INDEPENDENT VARIABLES: PART I. THE GENERAL THEORYThe Quarterly Journal of Mechanics and Applied Mathematics, 1948