Boundary-layer velocities and mass transport in short-crested waves

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Abstract
A comprehensive programme of research is being undertaken on short-crested waves produced by obliquely reflecting waves from a rigid vertical wall. This has included a new wave theory to third-order approximation. The second-order Eulerian water-particle velocities throughout the bottom boundary layer are now investigated. From this the resulting mass transport is considered to the first approximation. The vertical velocity component has a non-zero value within and just beyond the boundary layer. The limiting two-dimensional cases of progressive and standing waves are obtained and compared with published results. Comparison is also made with available experimental data. Graphs of some analytical solutions are presented.

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