Rip-current generation near structures
- 1 October 1986
- journal article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 171 (-1) , 459-476
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112086001520
Abstract
Data have been obtained for a wave-driven current system in a closed basin. Owing to interaction of the longshore current with the sidewall a strong rip current was generated. The velocity distribution over the depth of the rip current appeared to be more or less uniform. The current system has been modelled by means of a mathematical model. The effect of bottom topography, bottom friction, convection and turbulent viscosity on the current system has been investigated. The conclusions are that the rip current is dominated by convection and that the bottom topography plays a role in the convergence and divergence of the streamlines. The order of magnitude of the velocities is largely determined by the bottom-friction coefficient. The velocity field is modified by viscosity. First, turbulent viscosity entrains fluid in the longshore current and into the rip current, secondly it permits turbulent boundary layers and thirdly it is responsible for the existence of closed streamlines outside the breaker zone. Finally the model and the conclusions are extrapolated to prototype conditions.Keywords
This publication has 10 references indexed in Scilit:
- Selective lumping finite element method for nearshore currentInternational Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, 1984
- Numerical Models of Nearshore Currents and Beach DeformationCoastal Engineering in Japan, 1982
- A study of radiation stress and set-up in the nearshore regionCoastal Engineering, 1982
- Predictions of Heat and Mass Transfer in Open ChannelsJournal of the Hydraulics Division, 1978
- Water motion on a beach in the presence of a breakwater: 1. WavesJournal of Geophysical Research, 1976
- A non-linear theory of longshore currentsEstuarine and Coastal Marine Science, 1974
- Dynamics of rip currentsJournal of Geophysical Research, 1973
- Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves: 1Journal of Geophysical Research, 1970
- Rip currents: 1. Theoretical investigationsJournal of Geophysical Research, 1969
- A note on the dynamics of rip currentsJournal of Geophysical Research, 1962