Long wave generation on a sloping beach
- 8 February 1972
- journal article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 51 (3) , 449-461
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112072002289
Abstract
A general solution of the linear long-wave equation is obtained for arbitrary ground motion on a uniformly sloping beach. Numerical results are presented for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion. Near-shore large amplitude waves are also investigated using non-linear theory.Keywords
This publication has 4 references indexed in Scilit:
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- Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beachJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1958
- The formation of breakers and bores the theory of nonlinear wave propagation in shallow water and open channelsCommunications on Pure and Applied Mathematics, 1948