Crest instabilities of gravity waves. Part 1. The almost-highest wave
- 10 January 1994
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Cambridge University Press (CUP) in Journal of Fluid Mechanics
- Vol. 258, 115-129
- https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112094003265
Abstract
It is shown theoretically that the crest of a steep, irrotational gravity wave, considered in isolation, is unstable. There exists just one basic mode of instability, whose exponential rate of growth β equals 0.123(g / R)½, where g denotes gravity and R is the radius of curvature at the undisturbed crest. A volume of water near the crest is shifted towards the forward face of the wave; the ‘toe’ of the instability is at a horizontal distance 0.45R ahead of the crest. The instability may represent the initial stage of a spilling breaker. On small scales, the ‘toe’ may be a source of parasitic capillary waves.Keywords
This publication has 10 references indexed in Scilit:
- Crest instabilities of gravity waves. Part 2. Matching and asymptotic analysisJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1994
- Wave Breaking in Deep WaterAnnual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 1993
- Geometric properties of deep-water breaking wavesJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1989
- Mechanisms of Wave Breaking in Deep WaterPublished by Springer Nature ,1988
- The Stability of Steep Gravity WavesJournal of the Physics Society Japan, 1983
- Wave-Wave Interactions, Current-Wave Interactions and Resulting Extreme Waves and Breaking WavesPublished by American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) ,1980
- The instabilities of gravity waves of finite amplitude in deep water I. SuperharmonicsProceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 1978
- Theory of the almost-highest wave. Part 2. Matching and analytic extensionJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1978
- Theory of the almost-highest wave: the inner solutionJournal of Fluid Mechanics, 1977
- XLIV. The highest waves in waterJournal of Computers in Education, 1893