Bore-like surf beat in a reef zone caused by wave groups of incident short period waves
- 1 February 1991
- journal article
- Published by IOP Publishing in Fluid Dynamics Research
- Vol. 7 (2) , 89-100
- https://doi.org/10.1016/0169-5983(91)90062-n
Abstract
Resonant oscillation of sea surface elevation in coral reef zones is asserted to be excited by the change of radiation stress and breaking point due to the wave groups of incident short period waves. Numerical and laboratory experiments confirmed the generation of long period oscillation and its nonlinear deformation into the bore-like or tsunami-like surf beat with a steep forward face. A resonance diagram is prepared for a design criterion.Keywords
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